tv Eco India Deutsche Welle April 2, 2019 6:30am-7:01am CEST
muslim and the christian coalition. instructors occupied the city center seventeen president to church's response was. oh this is not the kind of freedom that we want how did you become a gateway to islamist terror. an exclusive report from a destroyed city. in the sights of i.r.s. starts april eleventh on. a. hollow welcome this is equally near a sustainability magazine which keeps you up to date with solutions to future proofing a life here or not a focus today is on the clothes we wear how wide and deep the impact is on the
environment and what you can do to change that i'm sunk that argo coming to you from mumbai in india over the next thirty minutes let's look at how a fashion label makes designer clothes with scraps of waste book. how a startup in france is trying to tone the tide in the polluting cloth dying industry. and how the indigenous but not a sea sick sorry is making a comeback in high fashion. but first to an important issue of our times fast fashion has become a buzzword on the world in the last few years many of the buying new clothes every weekend has a devastating effect on the planet but don't quite like or have access to environmentally friendly fashion or delhi based fashion studio is trying to change that bridge is setting a scalable and sustainable model in place to make fast fashion a thing of the past. at
this clothing design studio in southwest tele fabric waste is seen as a valuable resource the philosophy is simple we don't need more new clothes that challenges the current fast fashion business model something this label does with pride. the problem in the fashion industry it starts from the fact that it's based on a linear fashion model so today about seventy three percent of garment wrister just go into landfills because there is lack of weaves of using the fabrics and the garments that we are currently working with. it is this
realization that led critique and due diligence to other founders to address the problem of textile waste in india and set up a design label committed to making fashionable clothing pieces from textile waste or upcycling discarded items it's a concept that has been gaining in popularity in the textile industry all over india as awareness rises. there's always a garment that comes out of what. then are cutting processes there's a lot of restrictions that happened so i could all of that on board the small scale unit or a lot there is so much that has been produced and that exists it's about time that we start thinking about using what their. garment waste is not the only problem in india the textile industry is a major polluter in india the third biggest after plastic and paper. for india it's not just the ghana. and with that you have to be going so no doubt
it's the production rates that you have to be concerned about is still one of the law just exporters of forethought and dominance in the wood so all of the waste is just as we're going to i think that level is still something that benoit being able to do with the amount of they're producing. they'd bought a mental implications of watering and the situation is only getting worse by the day due to the surging demand for products use of chemicals the need for landfill space energy and water consumption. into a new fifteen zero one. and that fashion industry used up about seventy nine billion meant to kill so that's that's huge and the single t. shirt is about two thousand seven hundred twenty liters a flock of which is as much as most adults would drink in c.e.o.'s and that is
a single t. shirt. then of course that box instead that leached in the production you know process itself which then impacts the communities around which factories come . due diligence from does used personal funds to set up the company twenty twelve now they have nearly twenty employees the seeds of inspiration or so on while the fabric waste is being sorted. once all of the subject comes into the studio we start thinking about what kind of designs can bring all of them together we start fixing the fabrics in itself so that they can actually be used for either to create the clothes that we work with. that's not all to produce bags and other items and the scraps from their own production going to making other new products as well. whatever's left over after the bag and the collection is then sent to be processed
into people this is what is now making our stationery products. and now our next steps are actually to think about what to do with. india doodle a just considered a somewhat expensive brand with garments costing between fifty to one hundred euros . presenting. since it first set up shop dude league has shown the collection every year at the lakme fashion week. fashion week is a premier biannual event in india it's a way of reinforcing the idea that trend based fashion is not the only way to remain viable in order to track. but not everyone interested in fashion and design
or even other designers share their philosophy. they just keep questioning you at every level best to why you do what you do and at some point we're just given that it's ok it's ok for not understanding what we're doing but. it's about how we want to do it and how we want to create you know the products that. the labels products are already available in thirty stores in india and also to some stores but critical of things there's still a long way to go. christie said not everyone realizes how bad an effect not really losing and recycling all truths can have on the environment our expanding wardrobes are a testament to that this next explain a will help you make an informed choice the next time you go out to buy a t. shirt. how harmful is a t.
shirt for the environment. it's fun to buy a new t. shirt and it's usually cheap too but the environment pays the high price why. is grown in monocultures a needs matter variegation it takes an average two and a half thousand liters of water to make one single t. shirt. the cotton is treated with pesticides sixteen percent of the world's purses signs are used in cotton fields and these toxic chemicals can pollute the groundwater. and then there's all the energy that is consumed to make two shirts electricity is needed to transform ror cotton into yon. and finally look at production conditions eighty percent of the world's garment workers are women overworked and underpaid they manufacture your t. shirt for a pittance which is why it's so cheap. after production all these t. shirts are transported around the world that adds up to eleven kilograms of c o two
emissions per t. shirt. so next time you go shopping think about how many t. shirts you really need. now high street fashion only with dedicated time and effort into finding more oil turn it amsterdam based fashion for good is the world's worst museum dedicated to sustainable fashion innovation and one of its biggest mandates is to help us if we think how clothes are bought and discard it. just go shopping in any big european city and it's the same picture one clothing store after another but the lucrative textile industry is harmful to the environment which is why many big clothing chains around the fire so in response some of them are supporting a museum in amsterdam called fashion for good it explores solutions to the problem right at the entrance visitors learn that synthetic polyester fibers can take over
two hundred years to decompose so clearly there's a need for alternatives one side of bringing this innovation is to working with big retailers manufacturers to help scale some of those innovators and startups that we work with but another really important piece of the puzzle is to also engage the wider public visitors to the museum can have organic cotton t. shirts printed with their own designs and the museum combines information and commerce by offering the exhibit for sale. if you. always keep purchasing that's the principle behind fast fashion there aren't even just seasonal designs anymore instead there are new collections every few weeks the museum offers tips on how to avoid fast fashion such as buying less or buying second hand visitors can save the suggestions on a personal wristband then when they leave they get
a list of good resolutions for every day shopping the museum is mainly funded by retail giant sink looting c.n.a. and online shoppers the land. visitors though aren't told that. companies that are partnering with us they are on all their mentions already. pretty deeply committed to driving change you've seen that through obviously sustainability reports that they have. published and our other transparent about their work you also see that through certain collections some of them are presented here in the good shop that they are really pushing the envelope in terms of new solutions. sustainability is fashionable with the urban middle class and the fashion industry wants to profit from that a trend that can't be overlooked at trade fairs like bird lin's fashion week truly green labels or fair fashion have to prove they're completely sustainable from
fabric production to dying to finishing and that makes them expensive but the amsterdam museum hardly mentions that aspect. it's an exhibition actually founded by plus special brands so what the same dress a sustainable sustainable this is a new brand actually it's remote and you can use that it's a nice new labor camp of on your clothes so i think it's very important to have a deeper look to see but through higher than. in amsterdam the textile giants are getting inspiration from startups that are bringing new ideas into the fashion industry such as using recycled materials or natural dyes instead of synthetic ones . the big companies meet with the startups in workshops the museum has received twenty million euros from sponsors to fund them. works for one of the startups and i think it's very important on the one hand to have a program where you connect the big companies to good grades ideas that are there
so there are like lots of solutions for all the problems problems we have. but they have to get out there and the big companies the big brands if they change even a little bit there's a bigger impact. those who don't want to wait for that to happen can get active themselves to slow down the fast fashion cycle. you. now the chemicals used to make and die fabrics are often toxic for the environment and for the workers in fact. ninety nine percent of all dice are made from chemicals or france based company has found a way to make dice which let's see how. yes. this may look like modern art but it's virtually
a natural process at work believe it or not these blue color trails are made by bacteria. we've known for decades that microorganisms can produce pigments what we're doing today appealingly is expanding their production to an industrial scale with a view to replacing the production of petrochemical dyes worldwide and on its own. seventy blatche and beyond. say they're the first to study this extraordinary natural process they're the founders of the french startup believe based in toulouse they see these microorganisms this great allies that could be used to color all our clothes without any chemicals for years they work to identify the microorganisms best able to produce color. these microorganisms contain two talks of enzymes firstly enzymes that comprised down sugar molecules from detroit for
example and secondly enzymes that can reassemble those molecular fragments to make colorful dye more cubes. in two thousand and fifteen they finally developed a low carbon method to obtain pigment for dying textiles it's a method that's been used for centuries in the food industry you know we allow these microorganisms to ferment to bit mike fermenting beer. but instead of consuming sugar to make alcohol the microorganisms are consuming sugar to make dies . because of what. it takes a week and warm temperatures for the blue pigment to appear the substance is then tried to obtain a biodegradable poulder. suitable for drawing different types of fabric so depending on the formulas we apply we can produce colors ranging from burgundy to light blue. this bio
technology could change the face of the fashion industry. the textile industry is one of the most polluting sectors in the world. it uses a huge amount of chemicals to make diamonds. one hundred kilos of petroleum are needed to make one kill or die so in our everyday clothes there's a kilo of petroleum just for the dyes. it would take just one piece of clothing like a t. shirt or a pair of trousers for instance ten to forty percent of its environmental impact. believe has set its focus on india and china the biggest textile produces the company dreams of transforming the whole production chain making it more sustainable could believe help to lose return to its heyday when the city was the capital of blue. during the in a sense the french city blossomed thanks to the pastel blue business the soft blue
dye was derived from a local plant but the flourishing industry slowly declined from the early nineteenth century. nowadays to loose has abandoned the industrial scale production of the natural pigment but there are still signs throughout the city that hark back to the glory days of the business that. dates back to that time and has special significance to police c.e.o. . on this. one day billy kirby offered the city of columbus a beautiful building like this because it was built by people who were selling pastel bloom during the renaissance period. they. that's purely we are effectively going back to the story of to lose because they were creating dies out of plants until the nineteenth century then petro chemicals arrived now we want to develop again a production made out of renewable materials just about all the material went over
. so far the startup has produced several kilos of dolly powder with the help of the bacteria but they will need to improve the process if that's to compete with petro chemical dice to achieve its costs they're planning to use cultural waste as a substitute for sugar. that's the big advantage is that we can take all of the leftovers like stang's leaves or other parts of the crop and used as a source of carbon so we can kill two birds with one stone and. by twenty twenty one seventy lashon his team expect to be producing several tons of dye powder a year we might then be able to find clothes without pigment but they would need more time more money and more production capacity to become a serious alternative to the petrochemicals industry.
traditional crafts in india have often relied on natural substances for generations and indian dried straw was incomplete without a study a sixty odd wonder garment and will win in sync with the gold and silver thread but hang the weaver is stunning into a dying art as members increasingly turn to mechanized that churn out in large quantities of synthetic and cheaper saudis now some indian designers have stepped in to save the iconic sorry and keep the croc for life. but a messy hindus to wash away the sins in the river got some to die and be committed. but it isn't just the city. for you it's also this for hand after the saris with silk and gold thick.
with a distinctive looking feet. or by word for it the girls there must have the stylish indeed with. the fabrics spawn lubes. operated by a string of punch cards the determine the design for the. looms but. the physically demanding work is mostly done by men so. it can take the next to make a single start. but scenes like this increasing. the centuries old artistic tradition. in the past there would have been a wooden pan in every home. entire families in these villages around involved
in reading skills were passed on from generation to generation until this happened . thanks in the last decade to see the writing of machines churning out cheap sound. and wiping out the handle and just. made the switch. fifteen handled and and invested in woodlands and still. many artisans before still look for work in other sectors. it makes me very sad. but i have to embrace new technology in order to make a. production is now much faster i don't have to do backbreaking work anymore. unlike these machines. as well as at night. and i make much more money.
in the own markets. there's hardly a trace of the cities once which traditional machine made fabric and chinese made. for. there is a solution there to see if the handle industry. is the designer in better than us is from his company still makes a few handmade saris for the high end indian market. they can retail for upwards of two thousand dollars but the market is changing and be useful in this so for. now the next. nominee produces and crafted fabrics for luxury fashion houses in the u.s. and in europe. they end up as designer where on catalogues prices can be as high as four hundred dollars a meter. so says the timing chain know times have changed there isn't much of
a market left of india for people handle i'm sorry. the industry needs to reinvent itself. to go with international buyers because they really value craftsmanship and handmade products and they're willing to pay much higher prices. back in the village that isn't out to employ thirty two families on a regular basis. that the leaders here own between one hundred twenty to two hundred fifty dollars a month depending on the work and the skill. it's really about the market creates. the hope is that it will encourage artisans to stay true to the unique craft when you create something with your hands your brain your muscle that's what some emotion that effort that thing is that makes incredible limited style i don't think of course is a big thing when they when they come before the vehicle of a certain form that said i'm from the us or the big daddy. it's for them or it's
all for us and all of all our happiness is something the norm so i think it's an incredible see in terms of a start. you can see they more somebody here again making a single thing of hand-woven fabric. in an entire chain of artisans. specialize in different skills up to sixteen different workers a part of the process. for the artist and weaving for the global market means adapting the know how and learning to innovate. again bleeping when he was ten years old. learning the skills from his own father. he's been making six armies all his life but he has had the on with these modern designs i really have to concentrate the finish and craftsmanship for these fabrics as. a body has a body i can't afford to make any mistakes because then i have to restart the
entire process i have to constantly check the design and. it takes longer than making a sari. initiatives like helping to sustain the artisans and keep the craft of life . the peace for not only me but change seems inevitable and the future remains uncertain. i would love to be felt all the news knowing not to be bothered anymore than this cough cough and the problem with that like it did aspirational goals that are on the bed this basically this all cut off for them it's a sort of diving that's the biggest challenge because after theni of there's no reverse at all and in this industry. if one of the c's remaining hand looms but to fall completely silent. it would mock the disappearance not just across. the way of life. i hope today's stories inspired you to be the change you want to
a new cold war. this team it spoke. to me it's time to take stuff from home and face the first time in europe just such the come up and the fun for the troops the book is hard to overcome boundaries and connection to a good time for. indeed over the years coming up ahead. minus what's the connection between bread flour and the european union dinos guild motto d.w. correspondent and the baker can stretch this second line with the old spice sex by the deep. cuts no. smoking
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